Exclusive: Mongolian Diary  Page Two       

First World Cultural Heritage  study of falconry. 


The zud was really something. My area was suffered, but not too much. The lambs and older
animals were a problem, but my host family and friends still have the majority of their livestock.
Not too far away from me was a place called Bulgan where almost everyone had their herds
wiped out entirely! Bulgan had so much snow that supplies couldn't get in or out of the area -
not even big Russian army trucks. It is crazy to think that life can be so precarious.

Lauren and her fellow berkutchi (eagle falconers) stopped hunting at the end of February.  March is when the foxes start to breed, and it is considered taboo to hunt them once the month of March begins.  Most of the eagle hunters in this area of Mongolia are also occupied with lambing and other early spring activities as well.

Lauren’s eagle Alema caught a very respectable 10 foxes during her first season.  Considering the record low temperatures in the area, and famine, known locally as a “zud”, few people will be able to dispute Ms. McGough when she says that she knows what true “cold” is.   From Lauren: Another thing I am often asked about is the cold. We've had some absolutely frigid days where the hoods would actually freeze to the eagle's heads. Frost would develop around the beak opening from their exhalations. By the end of those days, the eagle's ceres and feet are orange colored, obviously cold. If we end up riding back as the sun is setting, or after sunset, when temperatures really plummet, our birds tuck a head beneath their wing even if we're cantering along at fast speeds. I'm not sure what the actual temps are, but I know it has gotten to -35 C degree  at night in Olgii. [Bayan Olgii]. ”

 
The berkutchi’s wives made the fox fur vest pictured here, out of the foxes that Lauren’s eagle caught.

 

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Other snippets of everyday Mongolian life:  After a successful hunt, horses  relax at the farm, with the day’s prize hanging from the saddle.

 

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According the Lauren, the toddler chewing on the rib is actually a very common sight in the country, as it keeps the child occupied while the adults finish dinner.
The other interesting practice that Mongolian eagle falconers engage in involves feeding the bulk of the eagle’s rations from a bowl, as shown in the following photos.

 

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As Lauren explained to us, no matter how hard the eagles work, or how much they catch in a day, they are fed at night from a bowl, which Lauren believes does wonders to eliminate aggression.
In the last photo, Alema is “feaking”, or wiping or cleaning her beak, on Lauren’s hand. Typically falconry birds will do this on a perch, but it is unusual for a bird caught from the wild to use the falconer herself as the cleaning surface!
After the conclusion of the hunting season, Lauren traveled to the Gobi desert along with some Mongolian biologists and a veterinarian from the Denver Zoo to assist in some research on the Cinerous Vulture. This is an on-going project between the Denver Zoo and the Mongolian Academy of Sciences to track the populations of these magnificent Asian vultures. (http://www.ikhnart.com/vultureproject.html ).

Lauren also had a chance to get better acquainted with the Bactrian, Asian, or Two-Humped Camel, Camelus bactrianus.

Finally, Lauren had a chance to visit some eagle eyries in early July with her friend, Aralbai, who took this almost-fledged female as his new falconry bird for the upcoming fall season.

While we read this, Lauren is bidding farewell to this amazing land and its resilient inhabitants, as she makes her way back across Europe.

Lauren’s plans for next year include living in Scotland and taking a year off to write  a book about her adventures in Mongolia. She then plans  to go to the University of St. Andrews for a graduate degree in Anthropology, studying the falconry of Central Asia (Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyz Republic, Turkmenistan).

It is a topic that has largely gone undocumented, and as it is so unusual, the likelihood is good that she could get some funding to do "fieldwork" in those countries.

 

Stay tuned for the final updates from Lauren and her Mongolian hosts!

 

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November 2010: The “Gathering of Eagles” meeting of the International Austringers Association in Garden City, Kansas.  After months of e-mailing each other on the other side of the world, REF Curator Anne Price and Lauren finally have a chance to speak in person, and enjoy a drink of Black Grouse (Thanks Lauren!!).  One of the gifts Lauren brought back with her from Mongolia, pictured here, is a carved perch for a hooded eagle to sit on.  Lauren says that it was used for dozens of eagles over a period of 67 years; when it finally broke, the resourceful berkutchi simply repaired it with some metal sheeting and nails. 

Thanks to Lauren McGough for sharing her photos and impressions of this stunning culture and landscape, and for ferrying goods back and forth to Asia.  Lauren is now living on Scotland’s east coast at the University of St. Andrews, beginning her Master’s work in Cultural Anthropology

 

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